Steering My Life

Since coming back from Berlin, I've been very frustrated with Slovenia and Slovenian people for all myriad of valid and invalid reasons.

I am having a breakthrough here now. A breakthrough that I've had many times before in other situations, but always forget to re-apply:

You get out what you put in.

I need to open myself up to this place more. I am not sure what that is going to mean, but I hope that putting that intention out there will make it more clear.

What you plug into your inner GPS is where you will arrive in your life.
- Ian Lawton

I'll keep you posted!

Frozen Frustration/ More MIllion Dollar Ideas

As readers of this blog will note, there are countless things that annoy me about living here. Normally I am nice enough to try and balance them out with kind comments, and I usually only mention the trivial things that bug me instead of the big glaring things like inane bureaucracy and how rude people can be here. So in light of focusing on one big glaring thing that has bugging me I am gonna focus on something trivial that seems to be growing in importance as the temperatures creep up....ICE



Is it true? Can I really NOT buy a big ol' bag of ice in this country? Just some big cumbersome thing to shove in the freezer and throw blocks into my blender to make refreshing drinks all summer long? Is that unavailable? Really? REALLY?



I mean I am willing to tolerate the lack air conditioning in the houses thing but no ice? What gives? This whole place is full of ice and snow all winter, are we all so afflicted that we cannot bare the sight of it once the winter is over? Come on! A girl can't live on low-grade pivo alone! Gimme a break. Gimme some ice.

Munich - Part I

So I had my first experience of the family trip to Munich. They have been going for 30 years, but the family has shrunk and spread out a bit in the last decade, so the last few years it has just been the Cap and the CapMama.

Munich was a nice city, but it felt kind of generic and sanitized. This was my first visit to Germany, but I have a feeling a lot of the country is like this. It sort of hurt that I didn't have the internet and had accidentally forgotten my list of cool places to check out. It was alright checking out the touristy stuff but next time I'll be equipped to find the seamy side of the place.

Anyway, here are pictures. Sorry I forgot to take a stereotypical picture of me sip with a beer stein, but hey! here I am eating some wurst!

























More pictures tomorrow or y'know whenever I get around to it.

Hold The Line

ok, rant time....



Public Enemy once sang the song and many of us still know its true "911 Is a joke", but living here has changed me a bit and made me slightly forgiving of those 911 dispatchers because (and I never thought I'd say this) at least they answered. If there's one thing (beyond the feeble shower caps) that has annoyed me about this country, it has been the casual attitude towards basic communication. I can't even tell you how many phone calls to offices have gone utterly unanswered during business hours, the sheer number of emails that have disappeared into the ether or been answered far too late . All because some people don't seem to give a...care.

While talking with a friend a few weeks back I asked her why the phones (mobile and stationary) didn't have message service/answering machines/answerphones, and she reminded me that during Communism most everything was government monopoly, so the customer (or the new business inquiry) was not a priority, they'd get to you when they got you. This attitude seems to have carried through very nicely up to today's "market economy", and I can only pray that the people here get hip soon. I mean you know you've got a problem on your hands, when I miss this:



Good luck.

Pay Dirt

Thanks Dad and Yoshiko!

Mission Accomplished!

With regard to this....







I am the proud owner of three new proper shower caps. While I am still on the market for a heavy duty one, this is a big step in the right direction.

tuš-kapa is a piece of crappa

The other day I went into the local beauty supply shop and in my round about Slovene speaking skills I asked for "something that I can use like a cap(kapa) when I take a shower (tuš)". To which she replied OH! Tuš-kapa. I really get annoyed when words are obvious. Oh well.

Anyway, this is what I got.



It has not succeeded in keeping all of my many hairs dry...AT ALL. I had a wonderful shower cap with Pucca on it in New York but I didn't think to bring it, and now I am suffering. I only wash my hair once or twice a week and the rest of the week I play an elaborate game of trying to position my body so that the hairs are away from the water but all the rest is being showered upon. This has proved a very difficult task, interfering on the joys of bath time.

If anyone out there in civilization would like to send me a REAL shower cap, I would be very thankful. If anyone out here in (what my friend Christina has deemed) "The Most Foreign Place In The World" can tell me where to find a good old fashioned normal shower cap with heavy duty rubber and elastic (like so)I will be even more grateful. I know its an odd request, but it just has to be possible.

Thank you and good night.

so many days

I can't believe I haven't posted in so many days. This week really was the most busy one I've had since I moved here. I am not one of those people who loves being busy but it is a necessary part of life it seems. Blurg. Anyway, here are some posts to try and make up for it.

First of all, happy easter! Today is Easter or Velika Noč so we had our eggs (jajce) and ham (šunka) and potica. I was going to go to the church and check out what that was all about but I just kinda failed at that. Next holiday, for sure. We did all have breakfast together though, as per tradition. Good times.

Anyway, here are some pictures (slike)

I Heart (City): Radovljica

I definitely miss NYC, but don't get me wrong. Wheelville definitely has its selling points:

Things I love about Wheelville (so far):

1) THE CAPTAIN - Yes, he's the reason I parked it in Wheelville, so he gets the #1 spot. I love that he has lived here most of his life and knows the place like the back of his hand. Much of his family is here, nearly all his friends are here, so living here gives me a massive glimpse into who and why he is. Love the man, love his town.


2) MY HOOD - I love my quaint little street with my friendly neighbors. Lovely neighbors who open the door for you and give you coffee when you loan them sugar. I know this might have been possible for me in NYC, but I have a feeling it might have taken a long time and a bigger commitment (buying a house, raising a family there, etc.)


3) FOOD! - I know it's shocking but I do eat incredibly well here. What Wheelville lacks in variety it makes up for in freshness. I've accomplished what is almost impossible in NYC, I've met actual farmers! In fact, there is one in the family and as I sit here I am actually munching on a lovely bowl of regrat (dandelion greens) that he brought up from Dolenjska yesterday. Yum!


4) GARDENING - You might be surprised to hear that there was a fleeting moment wherein I actually had my own garden back in Brooklyn. Yes sirree! I had an incredible spring/summer cultivating tomatoes, peppers, squash, and all manner of herbs. It was wonderful, but alas as quick as it was acquired the garden was taken away from me. :( But here in Wheelville, the garden is here to stay and we've got even more stuff: tomatoes, potatoes, carrots, apples, pears, peppers, broccoli, berries, beans, TONS of salad, and almost every imaginable herb. There is nothing like food fresh from the garden (see #3) and it tastes even better when you grew it yourself. So I'm looking forward to it this year!


5) THE VIEW - Back in Brooklyn, I mainly had a view of the street. Big rig trucks rushing past the window all day and night. Oh and the gas station across the street with its bright lights burning red and blue into my bedroom. Here, as I type I can look out and see the mountains. People pay all sorts of money just to vacation near to this view and lucky old me!


6) THE SIZE- While Wheelville only has a few venues and watering holes they are all within walking distance. My new favorite bar/cafe, Academia, is just around the corner and the none-too-shappy concert hall/movie theater, Linhartova Dvorana, is just a few blocks away. Where I lived in Brooklyn, we didn't even have a movie theater in my area! I know it makes no sense to compare but... I love the subway in NYC for getting around, but for reliability nothing beats going by foot when you can, so I am glad that I can do that here.


Anyway, that's my list, six months in. I hope that as time goes on I can discover more things to love and create a longer and better list!

I Heart (City): NYC

A few months before I moved here, I wondered allowed as to what I would miss about NYC. Now, I am about six months in to this experience and a little list has come together.

I am gonna try to type this list without tearing up.

Things I Miss About NYC....

1) MY FRIENDS! I have some of the coolest and most interesting people as friends. People from all walks of life descended upon that crazy city to do incredible things...and they invite me along! They are the best.



2) FOOD! - I grew up in California where there is just the most fresh and incredible food I've ever had, but New York trumps California for variety. Just about anything you want is available there and often into the wee hours of the night. In particular, I miss brunch. I haven't noticed anything in the way of breakfast culture in this country and brunch is a non-word. I've actually considered opening a weekend brunch restaurant just so I can have warm french toast or an omelette every weekend (without having to make it myself).


3) STYLE - The streets of New York are a runway, you find some of the most colorfully and artfully dressed people there (check out The Sartorialist to see what I mean), and it functions not only as entertainment but as an inspiration and direct challenge. When I see a great outfit it sticks in my brain, taunting me, challenging me to do better next time.


4) CULTURAL EVENTS - There are so many exclusive things that happen in New York. Musicians, artists, intellectuals, performers pick that city to do some of the most incredible things....and sometimes it is absolutely free! Last summer, I attended this incredible one-time only massive drum event in between two bridges in Brooklyn. The queue was thousands of people long and I was fortunate enough to be there. There is no other city where that event could have happened in that way.


5) CELEBS - NYC is the best city for celebrities since people there are too fabulous to really care (or rather too cool to show that they care) about them. We don't go to them, they come to us, since they know they can go out and have a drink like a normal person without any hassle. For that reason, I have had some hilarious and fun celebrity run-ins: dancing with Mike Meyers at a friends birthday party, hanging out with Amy Winehouse in a tattoo parlor, and pouncing on Elijah Wood in the street. One friend called me obsessed with fame. I don't think I am, but I definitely am excited about literally rubbing shoulders with glitterati in hopes that some of the stardust might rub off on me.


6) THE SUBWAY - Oh how I miss this great egalitarian transportation system. Nobody drives anywhere. Everyone goes by train and bus (and occasionally cab). You don't have to worry about showing up to a nightclub on foot since everyone does. There's never any worry for looking for a parking spot or filling up your gas tank. Everyone just hops on the train and (sooner or later) you are there! It is pure (though occasionally stinky and frightening) magic!


There are other things I could think of, but these are the main things. Come back tomorrow to read about what I love about Wheelville and Slovenia!

Shaking It Off

Is there any where good to go dancing around here?

This is a question I've been asking for years, ever since I left California and headed east (and ever "east-er"). I've rarely received a satisfactory answer to this question and truly fun dancing experiences have proved exceedingly elusive. A club that was fun one weekend would be dead the next, the house party that rocked until the break of dawn last year turned out to be a total fluke and even consistently fun places (like the old Bulgarian Bar space in NYC where every Thursday Hutz from Gogol Bordello gets drunk, break stuff, and DJ to a truly international crowd) change ownership, move spaces, or simply close down. I won't even get into all the One Day Only incredible festival events (like last year's incredible Boa Drum event in Brooklyn, see pics & pics). So all this to say that, no matter where I go, a good and consistent place to dance has been a fleeting fantasy... until now.

A few months ago, a friend of mine told me about Five Rhythms dancing and -- while I listened intently as she talked -- the whole thing sounded, frankly, too hippy dippy for me. Just the sort of thing I should do, but utterly disdained. However, despite this feeling, I still went home and googled it anyway, scanning through the website and reading about the events. Judging from the pictures, people seemed to be having a genuine good time. Nonetheless, I probably would not have gone save for the fact that I have been trying to renew my promise (inspired by my dear friend Jenni) to go places where I wouldn't expect to find myself. I mean I'm all the way in Slovenia, there's no need to get shy and cowardly now, right?

So, against my usual troublesome kneejerk snob reaction, I emailed the group leader who was bright and friendly and super inviting. I told her I would come, a few weeks passed, and I finally found the courage to goyesterday. Last night, I hopped on to the train and nervously headed into Ljubljana. Despite all my googling I was still unsure what I'd find and how it'd find me, whether I'd jump in and start shaking it or run crying from the room. I had to jsut head in and find out.

It turned out to be two full hours of free form movement in a safe and inviting space. Unlike a nightclub, there was no drinking or having to swat away pushy men, people were naturally free and uninhibited. Everyone was nice, and because there was almost no talking it really calmed me down. It was one of the few times where I could be out without worrying whether I could communicate; I didn't have to wrack my brain searching for words or translating sentences from English to Slovene. It was a relief. It felt like almost any one from anywhere could walk in that room and just jump in. Of course, you do your best to respect each others space and be respectful but besides that everything was open. Feeling nervous, feeling stressed? Put it in the dance, see what comes out? Falling flat on the floor, leaping across the room, stomping your feet, go for it. Wow wow, just what I needed! I'm glad I took the leap.

A Tale of Two Pivos

As Pengovsky mentioned just the other day, one of Slovenia's beloved pivos (beers) is getting a (much-needed) face lift. This reminds me that I should point out one of the funny quirks between the Captain and I. Well, not only are we of different nationalities and different ethnic backgrounds, but we are-- and this is the thing people seem to point out most often when we go out--allegiant to opposing beers!

While The Captain and all his mates are all dyed in the wool Laško-nistas, I took a shine to Union early on and refused to be swayed. The other day, at our favorite pizzeria, our friend who is one of the owners mentioned it and wondered why there was this rift in the family, noting that most people just bow to peer pressure on the matter of beer. I told her that many have tried, but none have succeeded; when it comes to this simple matter of personal taste, I am going have to vote Union.

Ultimately, I'd prefer a nice margarita or a lovely mojito over any of this stuff, but (as you might imagine) they are not as free flowing as I'd like. So I slowly nurse my Union with one hand, while batting away Laško wielding naysayers with the other. Ultimately, the punchline is that all the drama is over two beers that are now owned by the same company, however this foolish rivalry started long before me or the merger, and whoever's the Big Boss Man at the pivovarna is too busy counting his money (Scrooge McDuck style) to even care.

Auto Slovene

Now don't get me wrong, I love the Slovene language. I work on it everyday, practicing with whomever is nearby, listening to others speak, asking questions, doing vocabulary drills. I reckon I learn about a few dozen new words everyday. I am doing what I can to make this relationship work.

But I have to face the facts, and admit that I am not ready to move to the next level. I tried to be agreeable when I downloaded Firefox and found that it automatically set itself to Slovene. Great!, I thought, another handy way to learn the language. No problem. So I've left it that way, but then more and more programs decided to follow suit and I soon found myself staring at a small indecipherable error window, racing to my slovar to find out what had happened. It was just too much. So yesterday when I downloaded GIMP and saw that it had been "auto Slovenicized" I searched around trying to figure out how to un-poslovaniti it. Luckily the forums had an answer..I had to delete everything but English. And so I did, and it was solved.

But never fear! While Slovene may be deleted from that program it will never delete from my heart. We're just taking it one step at a time, so I'll give it the keys to my apartment.... but it can't move in yet.

Tennessee in Slovenia

Yesterday a very kind friend invited The Captain and I to join her in fancy box seats for the Drama production of Tennessee Williams' Orpheus Descending. The Captain had been itching to go to the theater for a while, but was worried that I wouldn't understand; so this was the perfect opportunity. My friend gave me a brief synopsis of the plot beforehand and would kindly lean over a few seconds after a pivotal scene and quickly explain what had happened. While a lot of the language flew right past me, I still had a fairly good understanding of what was happening, and I think I must attribute this to the skill of the actors in acting out the story not only with words, but with their bodies. I must especially highlight here the great physicality of award-winning actress, Silva Čušin. With a small but strong dancer-like body she seemed to leap and glide across the stage, and I was gripped with her every move. She is an interesting person to watch (she reminded me a bit of Broadway star, Donna Murphy) and I would definitely love to see her perform again.

Since I spent so much time watching the bodies, I was also pretty focused on the clothes and I must also commend the great Ljubljana-based costume designer, Alan Hranitelj, for a job well-done with the women's costumes. While they decided against making it all look retro 50s, the clothes still had a great vintage feel. There were some ensembles that I coveted and frankly I had to restrain myself from jumping onstage and grabbing a few. Hranitelj is one of the big creative talents of this country and his name keeps coming up in conversation. In fact, I actually found myself lunching (with Dr.Fil) one table away from him about a month ago. He was the subject of a large museum show last year and the exhibition was well documented, after all these encounters I think it is time for me to finally "study up" on this very smart and stylish man.

So, all in all, I give my first theater experience a big thumbs up. I noticed The Captain picking up the season schedule on our way out, so I am certain we will be back soon. Bravo!